2wd promod rat rod build

[jetboat]

The idea behind the project is a true "rat rod". Its going to be built from stuff I have laying around or can get free... other peoples junk basically.

Body: Axial Rat rod (hope to be the only new piece)
rear tires: TLT or WK (TLT shown for now)
front tires: airplane
chassis: home brew aluminum
rear axle: see below
Motor: ???
Trans: Have to see what I have

so here is what I started with... a set of TLT tires, a Maxx diff, some maxx outdrives and axles connectors, and some 12mm hexes that actually fit the Maxx axles (no clue where I got them)



I stuck the outdrives straight to the couplers:



Mounted them to the diff



Then under the truck



Whats not shown is that they are the perfect width. Now I am working on how to make it solid.

I know the drive train is far from conventional and the truck is a bit narrow but, I want something that is me and not cookie cutter.

[dpero]

Should be an interesting build. If you get stuck on parts, might have something laying around you could use.

But... I had to laugh. Your building a rat rod... with the only new part being the body.

Narrow shouldn't be an issue. Mine are all narrow.

What's the wheelbase of that body?

- Derrick

[william g]

how are you going to make the wheel/axles solid, sleeve the joints and glue them in?

Interesting build.

[shane77]

i would try to see if there is enough room to put somthing behind the wheels to male a brace from that to the top of the diff or try to make some axletubes

[jetboat]

WB of the body is about 11 3/4" could be more or less because of the way the front wheels are.

I have to admit that the new body on a rat rod is a bit hilarious.


Currently my 2 leading ideas for locking out the rear:

extend a tube over the axle with a bearing support in the end and then welded to the bulkhead... would require a lathe that I don't have and a tig welder I don't have.

Lower A-arm with upper adjustable tie rod and bearing support at the end... easiest to make but would require some form of suspension (most likely solid rod)


I have also considered redoing it with a solid rod straight thru the max diff but, I don't know if that is doable or not.

This whole thing started because I have to clear out my "hobby" room to make way for the baby... I started finding stuff that I had laying around and the wheels got started. If the TLT wheels had a little less back spacing it would make things a world easier, the way they are right now I have to try to squeeze allot in a small space.

[jetboat]

I pulled the diff apart and it was FULL of the nastiest grease you can imagine. So I soaked all the parts in Goo-gone then rinsed in a bath of dish soap and water. I let all the parts dry and then coated everything with a liberal coating of Moo-Slick from Cowrc.com.

Once all the parts were handle-able I grabbed an axle I had from when I had a duratrax Indy (yes its new in package but I have had it for 3 yrs). Its about a perfect fit. All I need to do is drill a hole in the center for the center pin and figure out a good way to keep it from moving back and forth.




Its less "out there" than I was going for but it will work. Unfortunately it looks like I will need to order some hubs as I don't have anything that will work.

[dpero]

For the rear axle... If you used some standard rear hub carriers from something like a Stamped, Slash, or these nice big Jato ones, you could permanently mount them to the chassis using a simple bracket, or work it into the chassis design. Use a tie rod for the top. Still need to mount the center section. Could the stock EMaxx side plates be used?

[Thunder VP]

You will be better off using the solid shaft through the dif, than using the universal hubs. I used a 1/4" shaft through the rear dif on my Wheelie King puller and works well.
If you need any parts made for the build just remember I'm right across the river and have all the tooling you would need. Just would need to wait till after iHobby.

[jetboat]

Ive pretty much settled on a straight shaft thru the diff... Now I am just trying to work out the details of how to connect it in the diff and how to connect the wheels. I have 1 hex drive hub from a Duratrax indy car (same as the axle) but only 1 and finding another like it may be difficult. I have found several companies making 4 holes screw adapters and 1 that is a hex adapter to a 4 hole but no straight hex's.

[Thunder VP]

The aluminum Axial hexes could be used by drilling out the center and millling off the outside step. Might not be the best solution but it should hold up. Custom hexes are not that hard to make if need be. You might be able to do it yourself with your mill and rotory table.

Originally Posted by Thunder VP

Custom hexes are not that hard to make if need be. You might be able to do it yourself with your mill and rotory table.

Mill and a quick indexer is even simpler and faster than a standard rotary table especially for making hexes

Man ... for $75 you can pick up a TWD chassis off eBay ... makes life alot easier and less frustrating if you don't have a mill & lathe to make custom parts and sure beats search for compatible parts.

I'd offer to build you one or make you the parts but I just sealed my lathe and mill with LPS3 for winter to keep the rust gremlins away ... sucks not have a heated farm shop

[dpero]

Originally Posted by jetboat

Ive pretty much settled on a straight shaft thru the diff... Now I am just trying to work out the details of how to connect it in the diff and how to connect the wheels.

No doubt that the straight shaft will be stronger but I was looking foreword to seeing how you would have done it with the universals. Seemed like a cool idea.

[jetboat]

I have not given up on the universals but, I am putting them on hold. I am thinking about setting this truck up so I can run 2wd or 4wd with an easy swap of the front axle assembly.

As for buying to make life easier... not much into that. Ive got a mill and almost limitless aluminum supply so I like to make stuff myself. I always like the idea of building something from scraps of material and coming out with something outstanding. Ive done it with crawlers for years... Thunder VP can attest to how far I have taken my crawling... when I do something I go all into it.

Originally Posted by jetboat

As for buying to make life easier... not much into that. Ive got a mill and almost limitless aluminum supply so I like to make stuff myself.

Well ... this should be a cakewalk for you then You ever find yourself with to much aluminum ... you can always send it my way

[jetboat]

Originally Posted by Mr. Giggles

Well ... this should be a cakewalk for you then You ever find yourself with to much aluminum ... you can always send it my way

I get it from a buddy that works for a semi trailer repair place. They throw out 4"x12" (and longer) long strips of 1/4",3/16 etc. So he fills his lunch box and brings them to me in exchange for custom parts its win win

Originally Posted by dpero

No doubt that the straight shaft will be stronger but I was looking foreword to seeing how you would have done it with the universals. Seemed like a cool idea.

... some bar stock bored with a counter bore for the bearing to support the end of the universal and assuming that the axle housing is metal (looks like rust on the housing) ... welding the new axle tubes to the housing would've worked. That's assuming you can find a bearing with the ID to match the OD of the universal without turning it down to fit and weakening it in the process (or just make a custom bronze bushing)

[jetboat]

axle housing is plastic... they make a metal version but its nothing to be welding to.

Ive got a plan in my head for the end support...

The only real problem I am having is figuring out how to attach the wheel to the axle but, I think if I drill for the hex pin and then I should be able to use a cable stop with set screw to actually hold the wheel tight to the hex. If it doesn't work out, I'm not really out anything other than time.

Ive been fighting the flu this week so sitting out in the cold garage hasn't been the most appealing thing to be doing. After I survive I-hobby (hopefully), I should be able to get this fairly well built in a weekend.

[Thunder VP]

Originally Posted by Mr. Giggles

Mill and a quick indexer is even simpler and faster than a standard rotary table especially for making hexes

I use an indexer for doing my own hexes and that is the easier way. Jetboat already has a small rotory table for his mill that's why I suggested that method for him.

Originally Posted by jetboat

The only real problem I am having is figuring out how to attach the wheel to the axle but, I think if I drill for the hex pin and then I should be able to use a cable stop with set screw to actually hold the wheel tight to the hex. If it doesn't work out, I'm not really out anything other than time.

Two methods for attaching the wheel: Drill & tap into the end of the shaft for a screw, or turn down the end of the shaft and use a die to cut threads for a nut. Even though you don't have the lathe setup for your mill, you could still chuck the shaft to turn the ends down with a file.

Originally Posted by Thunder VP

Even though you don't have the lathe setup for your mill, you could still chuck the shaft to turn the ends down with a file.

Excellent advice ... you can definitely use your mill (to a certain extend) as a lathe

Even better is taking a HSS or carbide insert lathe cutter and putting that into your mill vise and placing the piece you need to turn down into a collet (more accurate) or drill chuck and turning it down to size. I done this a while back just to see how this method would turn out on a R8 shell mill arbor that was 0.064" to big for the face mill that Grizzly sent me. Worked like a charm and this was hardened steel I might add (had to use carbide insert and flood coolant). Just remember to account for flex depending on how long the piece is

[BCCrawler]

Originally Posted by Thunder VP

You will be better off using the solid shaft through the dif, than using the universal hubs. I used a 1/4" shaft through the rear dif on my Wheelie King puller and works well.
If you need any parts made for the build just remember I'm right across the river and have all the tooling you would need. Just would need to wait till after iHobby.

Is there any way you could post pics on how this was done? Thanks